qwoff blog
The rantings of a scruffy gen x winelover.
Road to Vino Hunter Valley - Hunter River Burgundy
So with the lingering taste of the sublime Vat 1 Semillon still dancing on our tongues, we set off on an entirely less certain challenge.
It's no secret that Justin is a devout Barossa boy. When it comes to Shiraz, I struggle to sway him towards McLaren Vale offerings. So when the challenge was set to find him a Hunter Shiraz that he didn't think smelled like the fungus that grows around the bottom of a bachelor's toilet, I for one, was not entirely confident.
Don't get me wrong, I've been a fan of Hunter Shiraz for many years. I've always thought of them as a kind of Burgundian style of Shiraz, and I felt weirdly validated to learn that they actually used to be called Hunter River Burgundies (as we saw on some of the Tyrrell's Shiraz labels from the 60s & 70s).
But every time I've pulled one off the rack to try to convert Justin, it's failed to perform.
So we called up 2008 Hunter Valley Winemaker of the Year and legendary no-bullshitter Andrew Thomas, of Thomas Wines, and threw down the gauntlet.
"Find us some Hunter Shiraz that will win this Barossa boy's palate!"
When we rocked up, it was beers all round, and a quick tour around his new winery, which was an inspiring shrine of organised chaos. Anecdotes were written in bold black marker on the stainless steel tanks, and a baby basket press was half-buried under cartons of his famous Kiss Shiraz, doubtless waiting to be sent to the already converted.
A more than gracious host, but clearly in demand, Thommo's hot little mobile did not stop ringing, so he switched it off (unlike our soundman Hicksy, who still owes us a slab for answering a call from his missus in the middle of a take!), and we got stuck into the wines.
"So I rang a few of my mates, and I said 'send me some wine, boys!!' and here they are..."
I was sitting in the middle of Thommo and Justin in case things got ugly, and within second, they were at it. But words weren't going to solve this - the 8 wines on the barrel-top were what this challenge was all about.
First off the top was a cheapie - the David Hook 'The Gorge' Shiraz 2007. A sub-$20 red, it was classic Hunter, with not so much fruit as savoury - a spicy, peppery, earthiness that would very much define the wines we would taste that afternoon.
Lighter in body, with not a lot of oak, it was a smart little wine - though Justin was still getting a little bit of that funk on the nose...
But that was quickly put to rest wit the next wine. In the immortal words of someone I can't remember... "Hard to pronounce, easy to drink" was the call for the de Iuliis 'Charlie' Shiraz 2007 (pronounced "de-yule-ee-us").
Much richer in fruit intensity, it was dripping with blood plums, with some caramel oak, and again that lovely savoury, earthy spice. A step up from the Hooky, this was a great wine. So easy to drink, even Justin was getting a bit of a smile on his dial - this might just turn out to be a fine afternoon.
As we moved through the big guns from then on - the Mount View Estate Flagship Shiraz, the Tyrrell's Vat 9 Hunter Shiraz, the Meerea Park Alexander Munro, it was apparent that the Hunter style was changing. This were intense wines, full of dark fruit and chocolaty goodness. But ever present was this spicy earthiness, and all were high in acid, medium in body, and savoury in character.
These are great food wines, built to age. Indeed, the Mount View and the Tyrrell's were both a bit closed when we tried them, and it was only later that night at the eclectic Shakey Tables restaurant for dinner did they really come into their own, and what a pleasure they were.
But the hero for us on the day was none other than Thommo's own flagship, the Thomas Kiss Shiraz 2007 (pronounced "kiss-yur-ass"). It was a superstar. Lovely rich dark fruits and chocolaty goodness, we went on a journey to spicy Shiraz heaven with every sip - and there were many, particularly back at the trusty kombi.
So with mission firmly accomplished, it was back to the kombi, where we parked on a hillside on the way to Mount View and cooked up what Thommo had shared with us as his preferred accompaniment to Hunter Shiraz - Peking Duck Pancakes.
We found the Nulkaba Hatchery, who sold their own Peking Ducks, and set up the little camper cooker, and had a crack at this decadent treat whist re-tasting a few of our favourites.
And Justin, with good grace, did officially admit that the Hunter made some great Shiraz, blaming my cooked wine rack for his previous prejudices, which is not altogether unfair!
So the conclusion - the Hunter make a unique style of Shiraz, that is indeed somewhat Pinot-like, and "something to behold", as Thommo had put it, for the good ones.
This was a discovery in the truest sense of the world, a validation for me, and a whole new world of wine pleasure for Justin, and that's the aim of this whole adventure, really, isn't it.
So thank you Thommo, thank you to the awesome winemakers who helped expand our palates, and winelovers of the world - give Hunter Shiraz a crack, you will be delightfully surprised!






